NewportDJ Drew
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April 29, 2013 at 9:25 pm in reply to: any good (preferably free) WAV to MP3 converters out there? #39779
NewportDJ Drew
Participantcdex is the fastest and it’s free.
http://cdexos.sourceforge.net/
Its a cd ripper but also converts wav to mp3.NewportDJ Drew
ParticipantThe “loudness’ button an amp increases bass at low levels. It ‘shouldn’t’ work once the volume knob is turned up. Why does the bass need to be turned up when listening levels are low?
An equal loudness contour graph will show you that you for bass to be perceived as loud as mid range, it has to be, well, louder for our ear to hear the bass at the same loudenss. (eg 100Hz would need to be `45dB SPL. twice as loud as 1k @ 20 dB SPL to be perceived as same as same volume). So a loudness button raises the level of the bass so we can hear it at low listening levels.http://www.extron.com/company/article.aspx?id=loudnesscontrol_ts is a good read about ‘that’ button.
NewportDJ Drew
ParticipantYes. IMO, Better to go for an 18+. My reasoning, bigger surface area= lower frequencies can be reproduced.
NewportDJ Drew
ParticipantThis a graph of a shared frequency shelf crossover that I mentioned in my last comment. The numbers are not relevant just the graph plot.

NewportDJ Drew
ParticipantFrom what I understand any HPF or LPF in most powered speakers should not effect what frequencies are in the signal flow path from one speaker to another and nor should they. If you have crossover frequency controls then yes, you need to set them to be as close to exact points as you can. eg if you HP on the tops at 100Hz then LP on the sub at 100Hz. I know its almost impossible to do it to an 100% exactness, but the closer you get the better!
A trick to avoid needing exactness is to create a 10-20 Hz ‘frequency shelf’ that both sets of speakers share, eg make the speakers 110 and sub 120.
NewportDJ Drew
ParticipantSo I just had a look at the specs of the Cerwin you mention. Nice. I would personally bypass what they call the hpf (I think it is superfluous). I would just use the variable sweep, as my experience has shown that I have achieved best results in the 80-120 Hz range, depending on venue. (my default starting position is 100Hz and more often than not it is my ‘sweet’ spot)
NewportDJ Drew
ParticipantNext thing is if all the speakers are active (powered or self amplified) you will want to ‘daisy chain’ the sub into the existing speaker system. Just run a lead from the line out connector on the back of one of your ‘top’ speakers on one channel to your line in on your sub. Most powered speakers either sub or mid/top have an balanced line output available (Sometimes called ‘Thru’)
(You could also run to your sub then to tops- doesn’t matter which way it goes).Subs don’t really need a stereo ‘friend’ as bass is generally omni directional and most likely from your description of what you are adding one for, will add enough bottom end from a single stereo channel.
Aesthetically, a sub under each of the tops looks way more awesome tho!Just as an FYI….If one was running a passive system, you would run an active crossover to separate amps for subs and tops. Note you don’t need a special amp to run the speakers or subwoofers (an amp will just faithfully amplify the frequency/frequencies that is/are driven into it) but they need to be separate.
For $1000 pretty much any brand you get will do a fine job.
NewportDJ Drew
ParticipantFirst things first. A high pass filter conjours incorrect assumptions and in fact does the opposite of what the name suggests. It allows high frequencies to pass through untouched while filtering or blocking the lower frequencies. So what you want is a LPF (Low pass filter) a variable one I think. The next question is how low? Personally i think 100Hz and under. Most subs will reproduce at best, down to about 40Hz, maybe 30, but it is hard work to get a speaker to reproduce down to 20Hz as the wave forms are so freaking big. Most run optimally at the 50-140Hz range.
NewportDJ Drew
Participantalso try mixLR
NewportDJ Drew
ParticipantGuessing….. Not wired correctly.
NewportDJ Drew
ParticipantI have two main lights (a rage and a storm bird) that sit atop my speakers, I have an led ‘net’ that goes at the front of my table, and an led snake that wraps around the perimeter of the net. set up adds all of
5 mins to my load in time and they look great.NewportDJ Drew
ParticipantHere is a guide to SPL dB levels (at the ear) and how long before damage occurs.
Note: Rule of thumb-For every 3db increase listening time is ~halved.
115 dB 0.46875 minutes (~30 sec)
112 dB 0.9375 minutes (~1 min)
109 dB 1.875 minutes (< 2 min)
106 dB 3.75 minutes (< 4 min)
103 dB 7.5 minutes
100 dB 15 minutes
97 dB 30 minutes
94 dB 1 hour
91 dB 2 hours
88 dB 4 hours
85 dB 8 hours
82 dB 16 hoursNewportDJ Drew
Participant115 dB 11.2 Pa 0.46875 minutes (~30 sec)
112 dB 7.96 Pa 0.9375 minutes (~1 min)
109 dB 5.64 Pa 1.875 minutes (< 2 min)
106 dB 3.99 Pa 3.75 minutes (< 4 min)
103 dB 2.83 Pa 7.5 minutes
100 dB 2.00 Pa 15 minutes
97 dB 1.42 Pa 30 minutes
94 dB − − − − − − − − − − 1.00 Pa − − − − − − 1 hour − − − − − − − − − − − − − −
91 dB 0.71 Pa 2 hours
88 dB 0.50 Pa 4 hours
85 dB 0.36 Pa 8 hours
82 dB 0.25 Pa 16 hoursNewportDJ Drew
ParticipantIf you don’t want or need to edit your wav file then cdex is also a good free option. ( I use audacity 98% of the time tho)
NewportDJ Drew
ParticipantI have a about 4K. They are arranged into virtual crates ( eg decades) and I love that I don’t have to leave any at home. I also love that when I get a request I can search my entire catalogue and find a track instantly.
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