DJ Vintage
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DJ Vintage
Moderator@Terry: LOL
DJ Vintage
Moderatornick greek, post: 39829, member: 2957 wrote: i am not looking for monitors,i prefer spending more money on cdjs controllers etc. i just want some cheap loud pa speakers for house gatherings thnks for the info
You are welcome … but … uhm … were are we talking about monitors in any of this. I don’t think I used the word. My entire answer was based on their worth as PA speakers.
You asked if the showtecs were value for money and I think you got a decent answer. NO.
They ARE however CHEAP loud PA speakers (although I am guessing the 400W rating is peak or music power, meaning RMS is probably 2 x 100W, still loud enough for a living room party). And if you don’t care for sound quality, then by all means, go buy a set and crank them up to their distorted maximum power!
Greetinx,
C.DJ Vintage
ModeratorI have to say I have never been a fan of subs bigger than 15″. The reason is that apart from moving a lot of air, 18″ and even more so 21″ ones tend to have a life of their own when they are really pushed. I like to call it a wobble. Not a tight bass but some undefined rumble added. Not sure how to put it into writing, but if you ever heard 18″ subs kill themselves you know exactly what I mean.
That is why, when I started looking for a sub to enhance the low end of my otherwise fully sufficient Mackie PA, I wanted to get two 15’s (looks good, symmetry, yadaydayda). When I heard them side by side I found that the 18″ was so dry and crisp and so responsive and held up great near max. volume where the 15″ was clearly stopping to come up for air, it was an easy sell. The 18″ (800W RMS/1600W peak) perform so well, that I really don’t need nor want another one. If my 18″ and two 12″ top ends can’t handle it, I’ll go rent something really big :-).
For a big charity event in the Olympic Stadium last year where I was the sound guy, I organised a Fohnn (German brand, truely built in Germany!) PA. Very slim line array in a box top ends (5 foot long, 1 foot square) of which I had 4 and two totally awesome 21″ subs. They are rated at 2000W RMS/8000W !!!! Peak and boy, do they haul ass.
They have special electronics that monitor the movement of the speaker membrane and if it starts to do something it isn’t supposed to do musically, they compensate for that. It is the dryest sound I have ever heard from a 21″ sub. They claim the same level of sound pressure as 4x 18″s and you know what, I believe them.
BUT … and there is always a but, in this case relevant to the topic. They weigh in at an incredible 100 kilos each! Fine for one gig a year at a major venue, but trust me, you do not want to haul those babies around if you don’t absolutely have to.What I am trying to say here is that if you are a mobile DJ, bring what you need, don’t lug around needless stuff. Get that one sub and go play out with it. If it is not enough LF for you, then get the second one.
Greetinx,
C.DJ Vintage
ModeratorI don’t. Don’t have a DV2 and don’t use MixVibes :-).
Having said that, I think it is good plan to make one yourself if you haven’t done that sort of thing before. Making a mapping yourself will give you so much insight in how midi actually works on a much deeper level. It will go a long way in the future if you ever want to tweak standard mappings or fix problems.
Greetinx and good luck. Let us now if you managed it,
C.DJ Vintage
ModeratorWhat exactly would you want to do to it? My experience (and I did quite a bit of electronics projects back in the day) is that if you build the housing for a project yourself, no matter how hard you try, it will always look home-built/projectishly. Which kinda defeats the purpose of using it as a showcase.
Unless you have a very big toolshed and/or access to a 3D printer and stuff, you’ll be stuck with wood and/or metal for the case and it is very hard to use those materials privately and get to a satisfying profesional looking result (unless you are building a chair and even then :-)).
Wish you luck though and if you do decide to do it, be sure to post a pic of the result.
Greetinx,
C.p.s. 1 tip if you are gonna go ahead with this. Try making a transparent case from plexiglas, stick in some nice LED’s. Show the inside of it.
DJ Vintage
ModeratorI would like to try Serato DJ at some point (probably when they finally toss that Apple-ish “we’ll be the judge of what controller is good for you”-attitude and just go midi-mappable), but the elastic gridding wasn’t enough to convince me NOT to get the Denon. I do lots of weddings, company events (good pay :-)) and such. So most stuff I play pretty much follows the regular boom-clap of older dance music. I only play Latin and other-wordly musix occasionally (although I love Salsa dancing myself!).
Being rather Old Skool I think the sync button is a nice addition and I use it regularly, but I can live without it easily enough. At the time I bought the 6000 there was nothing in the Serato supported range (before DJ/DJ LE!) that ticked so many checkboxes on my wishlist. So going Traktor (could have chosen VDJ as easily) was a “sacrifice” I gladly made.
Greetinx,
C.DJ Vintage
Moderatoratom12v, post: 39796, member: 1423 wrote: What Chuck said plus being master-slave if the master goes out you have no sound at all.
Good point … I thought of it too, but decided I had killed his enthusiasm enough already :-). But yeah, a master-slave configuration does take away that advantage from true active speakers.
Greetinx,
C.DJ Vintage
ModeratorI recently got 2 Denon SC2900s (reasonably cheap) with a Denon X1600 mixer. I’d call this a rather high end set and ended up paying about 3,500 dollar for it. This is new of course and not including the Sennheiser (and if you bought HD25-IIs, that can run up the tab quite a bit by itself). Obviously high end from Pioneer (which doesn’t really have all that many more features than what I have and I personally tend to think build quality is even a bit less than the Denons) would run you up upwards of 5,750 dollar. Just to show you that CDJ/DJM setups are not as “cheap” as controller solutions, even if you would take the laptop you need into consideration.
You have good quality stuff and it will definitely get you “loose” on CDJ workflow. Depending a little on the state they are in and the hours (and amount of people) the have on them, I’d say you are somewhere between money’s worth and decent deal.
Greetinx,
C.DJ Vintage
ModeratorUhm … you shouldn’t judge a book by it’s cover, but if I look at these speakers I get goosebumps. Any kind of “design” feature costs money. Both in development and in production. Money that doesn’t go into the only thing speakers are supposed to do: play music in good quality at decent volume.
And I mean seriously, 175 pound for 2 speakers, with USB/SD playback functionality AND two wireless microphones? I couldn’t suggest one single wireless microphone that is halfway decent for under 200 pounds. Quite frankly, they look like they would sit very pretty in some 12-year old’s bedroom and impress the heck out of his friends.
Just little telltales to look for:
- The power cord is permanently attached to the active speaker. That just doesn’t happen with the real stuff. You have a detachble power cord, period.
- The input looks like it’s RCA only, which means unbalanced, which means you can’t put them further away from your controller than about 3meters and even then you run a risk of interference and hum.
- Finally the speaker connections are those springloaded push thingies. Not found on any serious speaker. Speakon, XLR, even banana-plug type (on older systems).
A good rule of thumb is, if you can find only connections you’d expect to see on your home HiFi, it is probably meant to go in the home.
Other than that, save up and get some good old BORING looking real PA speakers.
Greetinx and good luck,
C.DJ Vintage
ModeratorI am taking the scratch course and although I haven’t practiced too much due to family circumstances, I can say you can scratch with it too. The Denon jogwheels are attached directly to the electronics. So no delay and wear/tear from sprockets and such that need to transfer the movement. Very direct.
The unit is 100% roadworthy. As Simply stated, it is a highly personal choice. I never regretted mine for a minute. I have recently switched over to a Denon SC2900/X1600 setup, but the only reason being I like the big platters and the fact that with the money I charge, customers do expect to see some substantial gear and an iDJ Pro just won’t cut it (although I am gonna get one of those as backup and for smaller house and beach parties and stuff).
Good luck with your decision!
Greetinx,
C.DJ Vintage
ModeratorAgreed and it could easily turn into THAT kind of fight. You know when you can sense the crowd is on the edge … extreme “happiness” can erupt into heavy fighting. It was in the middle of nowhere and the local youth had a bit of a reputation of having fighting as a major hobby. So stopping the music took away one source of energy feeding the already blazing fire.
DJ Vintage
ModeratorIf you are a mobile jock, as I am too, one of my main concerns would be redundancy. Although the S4 has a switch on the back to set channel 4 to thru (so you can have a fallback iPod or something) that goes through the master volume and into the outputs, it is NOT a standalone mixer. If your laptop freezes and you need to reboot, the thru-option is feasible. Play one song from the iPod while you reboot, open Traktor and get cranking again. But what if you laptop dies? You are stuck with playing your iPod the rest of the night, no mic opportunity or anything.
At the time I decided on the Denon MC6000. Two mic inputs (one combo, one Jack) with 3-band EQ, matrix input (so pretty much any input can be routed to any channel (it has come in handy on many an occassion :-)), great sound and fully standalone, so works just as good with as without laptop. I had two simple CD players sitting next to it. Something goes wrong with Traktor (and it has) just flick the input switch for the channel to CD, press play and off I go. Even if the PC damage is permanent, I carry enough CDs (about 20 MP3 CD’s in twofold for a total of 40) to get me through the night.
And I have two mics I can continue using.I know many on here think it is not gonna happen or not a big issues if it happens, just reboot and be done with it. I have been a DJ and into PCs for too long to know that Murphy is alive and kicking. And if you do weddings and stuff, you just can’t afford any serious hickups and not be prepared for it. I for one would never stake my reputation on a sound system which key ingredient is a laptop/PC.
Greetinx,
C.DJ Vintage
ModeratorI had been playing with my two 12″ speakers (Mackie HD1221) and wanted a boost in the low end. I did want to stay with Mackie, since (I’ll spare the technological details) there is a lot of thought that goes into radiation patters, driver emission points and stuff. Any sub will work, but a matched set is better tuned and should normally do better, with proper placement that is.
Because of the looks (I did want Awesome 🙂 and my budget I went out for two 15″ subs (powered). I was able to hear both the 15″ and the 18″ in action at the store. And I dropped my wishlist and went with one 18″ (couldn’t afford a 2nd one then) with the intention of getting a 2nd one later. I have been playing with this configuration for a while now and I definitely don’t need a 2nd one! The thing is so powerful I ususally run it on a -3dB setting to keep things in check.
I run a pair of XLR balanced cables to my sub input (which has one of the top ends sitting on a pipe on top of it). Then I have two sets of outputs, one is full pass through, so what goes into the sub goes out the same (handy if you need to link several subs). The other set of outputs is high pass (or low filter = same thing) and gives me a 100Hz crossover frequency. Anything under stays in the sub, anything higher comes in with a 24dB/octave slope. Those outputs go to my top ends.
So the workflow in my case (1 sub, 2 top end) is pretty much like this:
- Main Out mixer/controller (I have a MC6000 as well)
- Input Subs (both Left and Right)
- HiPass Outputs Subs (one XLR to Top end sitting on pole on sub, one longer xlr to the other top on stand)
- Input Top Ends
Presto!
Greetinx,
C.DJ Vintage
ModeratorI have no clue what “these” are, but looking at your profile picture, I am guessing “these” are the American DJ stands. I have two of those as well, both 6 ft, but one shortened to a size convenient for me.
I personally have never used the T-Bar thingie. It looks absolutely toy-ish. Another thing I don’t want is to be able to see through the bottom part. It is usually a (cable and cases) mess behind the DJ stand and I don’t want my audience to see that. It is one of the main reasons I hate using regular tables of any kind. You always need to put a skirt of some kind around it. More stuff to carry, more time to setup and it usually looks like an afterthought, not very professional.
You can only put flightcases on there as there is no tabletop. I have solved that by putting in boards, which means even more stuff to carry. I have solved the see-thru thing by making a custom “skirt” that goes over the top (to cover the ugly boards) and across the front and sides. It works, but not as professional looking as I would like it.
Although they set up relatively easy, they effectively consist of 4 bars and two side parts (and two board if you use those), for a total of 6-8 ungainly components. If you stick them in a flightcase, you are kinda defeating the purpose of small and portable in my opinion and I haven’t found a 6 ft bag that could hold both the long bars and the side things. So I end up taping the long bars together and the two side parts also for transport.
The ProDJUser stand I now use primarily (I do use the ADJ ones for live sound sometime) has two butterfly locks, open them, fold both sides out, lift up the bottom shelf, drop it back so it locks in the two slots, lift the top lid, unclick the two hinges that hold the top lid, drop the top lid to sit on the hinges and ready. I can actually do it faster than I can type how to do it. I bought a 24″ by 24″ RGB Led panel with remote control which I attach to the front to give a bit of a DJ look, but that is optional.
http://www.bax-shop.nl/dj-meubilair/prodjuser-dj-stand-dj-meubel/product-details.html
I have looked at and used a lot of tables and stands in my 35 year career, but I can safely say this is the best one I have found. It can take a beating on the road, sets up in 30 seconds (literally!), contains no lose parts, offers lots of room for gear (top) and miscellaneous stuff (lower shelf). The working height is just right (if you are really tall you can use the top of your flightcase upside down under your gear to raise it another 3-4 inches, but I never bother. I am 6’3″ or so and it is a very comfortable height for me. The one bad about it are the feet. Because there is so little material to attach them too (if you get one, you’ll see what I mean), that after a few gigs I started to lose one in transport. After sticking it back in a few times and promptly losing it in the car again, I decide to take all feet out and use it without. On all but the most unflat surfaces it works just fine so I never even notice anymore. In case a real problem with stability arises, a couple of beer coasters will solve the issue :).
Greetinx,
C.DJ Vintage
ModeratorProdjuser dj stand. Setups in seconds. Had it for a couple of years now. It gets abused for both dj and live sound work
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