Speaker help for mobile set up

1st of all:
Do not buy this … it is bad.

Then start here:
http://www.digitaldjtips.com/2013/04/beginners-guide-to-pa-systems-part-1-basics/

and here:
http://www.digitaldjtips.com/2013/10/lighting-guide-djs-part-1/

Read all the parts of both series (they are free!) and then come back to us with the questions you still have.

Hi, Gotta love bars in Greece 🙂

Most subwoofers will have the built-in crossover that is needed to separate the low tones (for the subwoofer) from the “higher” ones (for the top speakers). In which case you plug it in exactly as you described. The lowest bit stays in the subwoofer and will not reach the top speakers. This is good!

The lower the frequency, the more power you need to make that sound. So subwoofers have lots of power and a very small range of tones they have to produce (typically between 35-125HZ, sometimes even narrower). This means the top speakers don’t have to worry about those power-guzzling lower frequencies (below 125Hz) anymore. All the amplifier power is now freed up to drive the rest of the frequency spectrum.

The effect it will have on the sound quality is extended low frequency range, more total volume/power and better sounding low, low-mids from the top.

Some subs will also have a full signal through link, don’t use those in this configuration though. It means your tops will still need to produce those low notes also and it will sound muddy and with lacking low/low-mid. The full signal through connector is only there if you need to link few subwoofers together (in bigger PA setups) in which case you want the next subwoofer to get all the lowest stuff too.

Hope that helps.

Greetinx.

Simple:
#1 The brand is a Chinese knock off
#2 There is no chance in the heavens that they actually deliver 3000W performance
#3 The rule in PA: You pay what you get -> If anyone could make a good sounding PA at that price point with that actual wattage, everyone would
#4 They are monitors

The rule is simple: If you buy cheap you will buy twice (or trice) …

So I would bet money on the fact that my 1000W Peavey PA for more than double the price would easily blow this system away. In sound quality and actual dB sound output.

If it comes to PA chose quality gear! If you cannot afford it: Save up and rent in the meantime…

My father is an studio engineer and sound-man, and he always said to me ‘Spend money good one time, never spend money again” start out with two good quality powered monitors and a powered sub, that should hold you for quite some time! Until you learn more, stick with that. If you have a gig requiring more equipment, rent the extra and add it to your fee 🙂

A half decent setup for 100 people will cost you at least 1000, a mid-range setup for 100 people will cost you about 1200-1500. A really really good setup for 100 people will cost you about 2000-3000.

These are the simple facts. There is no wonders in PA. Well actually there are some, but they are really expensive.

It’s not dependent on the size of the speaker. It’s not even dependent on the power of the amp (Watts). What really matters are the effiency of the speaker and, in combination with the amount of power, the max SPL (power level). As a general rule, you’d need 5 Watt per person (minimum), and this is RMS – no fancy beefed up Music Power, Program Power or whatever nice names they have for it. Outdoors it doubles and for heavy/load dance music double is also a good idea.

So for 100+ people you’d need a minimum of 500W RMS, but preferably 1000W RMS. And because 100 people soak up a lot of low end, which is where the majority of your amp power goes, a sub is also a very good idea.

If you hook up your tops to the master and the sub(s) to the booth, make sure you switch those crossovers on in the tops. And be aware that usually booth out does NOT send mic signal. So if you use microphone, it won’t go over the subs. Not a real problem and might actually help, just so you know though.

Greetinx.

A good subwoofer will have dual inputs (L/R) and dual outputs (L/R). You hook up BOTH inputs from your controller to your sub. Then run one cable each to your top speakers. If you ever get a second sub, you’ll just run controller-sub-top on each side seperately.

It does depend a little on your top speakers. If they have a high pass filter, you can run one side either stereo in or mono in, with one through lead to the top and the other top straight from the controller. Just be sure to turn on the high pass filter on both top speakers.

In my experience the crossover is USUALLY in the subs (single tops don’t really need a high-pass filter and subs are usually added afterwards, very few people start out with one sub and then start adding top speakers later). If you stay with the same brand and preferably series (has to do with acoustic design/tuning), it will connect properly, regardless of where the filter is.

A same brand/series setup has several advantages. Already the acoustic design/tuning bit, the right cross-over/filter frequency and such.

I can only comment on my own choice a few years back. I ended up getting the Mackie HD series (I have 2x 12″top with 1x 18″ sub) and I can safely recommend these to anyone. Prices have dropped in recent times (I know there is a mk2 around the corner) and you can pick up set for a reasonable price. They sound awesome, good build quality, all the protective measures you need (heat and clip protection), digital amps with plenty of headroom. Three audio presets: normal, monitor or contour (emphasis on speech frequencies if you are amplifying a meeting or something). The nice, trademark, blue LED on the front can be switched off.

The have different types and sizes, but this set had just all the right things for me.

Greetinx.